Thursday, June 28, 2007

Cycling from Calais

Cycle off the ferry , turn right past Sangatte and within 20 minutes you'll be on one of the most beautiful stretches of coastline anywhere in France.
Both Sea France and the Pas-de-Calais tourist board have useful websites with a variety of circular rides ideal for day trips.
The dramatic white cliffs below Cap Blanc Nez mirror Dover's are backed by sweeping dunes and fringed with long sandy beaches. The Côte d'Opal is so-called because the chalk cliffs give the sea a beautiful, milky hue.
Wissant, south west of Calais is a small fishing village ringed by dunes where you can cycle along the miles of firm, wet sand where kitesurfers play.

Refuel on crab and mussels at one of the many whitewashed cottages in Audresselles, another timeless fishing village - and head for the beach resort of Wimereux for sunset. There's a selection of brasseries and hotels, but it's hard to beat the Atlantic, which has rooms and one of the best seafood restaurants in the region - both come with sea views.

Turn inland through the Parc Naturel des Caps with idyllic pastoral scenery just 20km from the pancake-flat industrial sprawl of Calais. The rolling green hills are easy on the eye but steep enough (when carrying panniers) to provide a challenging weekend ride. In fact this is perfect cycling country: the volume of traffic is quiet compared to English country roads and in a land where cycling is revered, the respect motorists show cyclists is almost humbling.

Meander past farmhouses and chateaux to Audenfort for the night. In French villages there is little to do in the evening aside from eat and then sleep, and if you're cycling all day you want to do both well, so it's worth planning ahead.
The Auberge du Moulin d'Audenfort, a converted 17th-century mill with the stream still running through the building and a menu of hearty regional food is up to both tasks. Terrine of rabbit in white beer and hazelnuts and knuckle-end of lamb in thyme and garlic could linger in the memory and the Vieux Lille cheese is so earthy you can taste the farmyard.